Tuesday, October 19, 2010

It's not crazy, it's Korean

So I've been here a mere 5 weeks now but have already noticed some things about Korea that are amazing while some others are perhaps not so good. I plan on keeping a cumulative pros/cons list of Korea. Disclaimer: Be it known that this is only my personal observation and is subjective in every way. Rest assure I am culturally sensitive, aware, and courteous.

Let's begin on a positive note:

Pros of Korea.

1. Free Stuff. Koreans love to give away free stuff. When going to a bar for drinks it's quite normal to be given free food. Often times the snacks are simple peanuts or mystery finger food or rice chips while other times you receive a whole plate of fruit or crackers. (Called 'service-ee')This is only where it begins. When ordering food, you don't get just what you order but your meal is also accompanied by many side dishes and usually soup. The side dishes can be refilled as many times as you'd like. Many Koreans would argue that these side dishes are simply part of the Korean meal. To me, an American, it's free stuff. Furthermore, this Korean perk often times shows up randomly. For example, I went to buy a new cell phone. (detailed post about that experience will come later) I walked out of the store with not only a new phone but also a wall charger, a computer charger/ISB, head phones, a back up battery and a charger for the backup battery. WOW! Excellent! Also, I had to go buy some more make-up and when I got home I realized that I also received a skin treatment package, lotion, and some other stuff that is still unbeknown to me as to what it is. (Mysterious items are limitless to foreigners.) Yes, Korea is very good at giving away free stuff and I am more than happy to take it off their hands.
2. Public Transportation is availably EVERYWHERE. I live in a small town in the norther part of the country and here I can easily use the bus to get around the city. If I want to travel outside of the city, I can simply go to the bus terminal and buy a bus ticket to anywhere my little heart desires (within the boundaries of South Korea). When traveling in Seoul the underground system is extremely easy to use. The signs use both Hangul and English so navigating is never a problem. However, if/when a problem does arise, Koreans are always delighted to help, which takes me to my third pro-point.
3. Koreans are very nice and they are always so happy to help. A fair amount of them speak English, even if it's broken. It's not uncommon to find Koreans that will go out of their way to help foreigners. I have come across people that have offered up and given free rides, which meant I didn't have to pay for a taxi, ones that have walked with me to a desired location, and others that will stop and give me directions until I have figured it out. It's also very common for random strangers to approach me and say "Hello. How are you?", especially student aged Koreans. Several have opened their homes to me and have invited me to join them at a personal family event. They are always excited to share Korean culture, language, and love.
4. Service is amazing in restaurants. The servers are always so delighted (or so they appear to be) to get you anything you want and do it so quickly. It's not uncommon to see servers doing a speed walk around in order to get customers what they've requested as soon as possible. Servers are always so polite and speak to customers using the politest form of the language. Also, Korea has a great system where if you want a server you have two options: press the 'call bell (that literally goes 'ding dong!') that is on the table or just call a server to the table using a simple phrase that translates to 'here' or 'there'. Then wait about 2.5 seconds (if that) and a server will be right over to assist you. After being a server in the States for 6 years, going to Korean restaurants are quite the thing to experience. Every job in Korea is valued and they all recognize that without one the people that hold certain jobs, society would not function properly. No job is looked down upon; (aside from those that work for the double barber poles) each person is respected as having a job and is treated with great value as a contributer to society. This is quite different from my serving experience in the States where servers are often times treated as the scum of the earth and are disrespected quite a bit. This really ties into a previous point I touched on earlier about how respectful Koreans are overall to each other. It's something that their culture has successfully maintained and is something I wish Americans would adopt.
5. No tipping anywhere for anything. This was REALLY weird for me to get used to initially in restaurants because I always want to thank the servers to being so faithful and hardworking but in Korean culture, tipping is seen as being somewhat of an insult. There is no tipping the servers, the taxi drivers, the hair stylist, the nail tech, etc. This ties into the idea that every job is respected and seen as a valuable contribution to society; there's no need to tip because they are working hard enough to make the money they do. Tipping to Koreans is making a suggestion that you pitty them and their job, that it's below standard, that they obviously need more money because their job is so terrible. Overall: it's an insult and you don't do it. The money I would have spent on tipping adds up quickly and it's really nice to not have to do it and I'm working on becoming accustomed to it.
6. The kids are just...different I spend half the time implementing classroom management here than I did in America. While kids will be kids, they respond much soon and much easier. There is INCREDIBLE support/force/fear from the parents so the kids MUST perform well in school. They respond REALLY well to the "You've disappointed me" look, which works really well on them. Korean students are programed not to fail and are not ok with it because it's like committing social suicide. Controlling them is half as much work, which means there is still effort put towards behavior management but not nearly as much as during my student teaching.
7. Crime? IS there a Korean word for crime? I have NO IDEA how this happens but there is hardly any crime in Korea at all. The evening news consists of the weather report, road closings, updates on festivals, the latest trends in farming, and some world news. If you know anything about Korean culture you know that 'saving face' is a big problem (refer to 'cons' item #1 below) so it is possible that they don't broadcast all crime. However, I can personally attest to the fact that Korea is EXTREMELY safe and have never felt more at ease when walking down the street in downtown after dark. This is confirmed when I talk with my Korean friends about crime here. They say that it's never been a problem and they have never felt scared about being hurt or robbed at any time. It's an incredible phenomenon that I simply can't explain. The children here have an incredibly pure, innocent child hood that has been lost in the States. Middle school and high school students walk the streets of down town late into the night with no adult around. Bags are left unattended in shopping carts at E-Mart. On a slight digression of this topic, it's wonderful to know that my 6th grade students are seeing movies or going to the park or playing family games on their weekends as apposed to drinking and going to parties where they do things that are much too mature for their age, as my students did in America. Many Koreans still wait until marriage to sleep together and PDA is just not seen. Physical actions are still considered sacred and are reserved for the couples that have been together a respectable amount of time. The innocence in a Korean student's eyes is the most beautiful thing I've seen in a long time.
8. Sharing meals is the age-old Korean style of eating. When eating out, most of the time (I would say about 80%) the meat is brought to you raw and a designated person will cook for the group. (explaining how the person is "chosen" will put me off on a tangent. If you so choose to follow, come a long but if not just skim until you see the closed parenthesis. So in Korea, age is a BIG deal; it affects language, social customs, social norms, and eating and drinking etiquette. So the 'designated' cooker is "chosen" based upon the company of the group. I am using ' ' and " " because there exists another miraculous phenomenon in Korean culture that is unfathomable to many foreigner; Koreans just know who should do what, what role each should have and they just do it. There's no complaining, no 'it's not fair' and while there may be teasing and exchanged looks it all turns into laughs and jokes. This can be seen in many different scenarios. For example, when with Korean friends at their house they all just help clean up afterwards and they all just do their part. There is no, "what can I do to help?" Everyone KNOWS what must be done so they just do it! Wow! This is also seen in their language. To a non-native Korean speaker, their language is extremely ambiguous but to them, they just know what each their talking about and can fill in the blanks, accurately too! There's no one saying in a rude, judgmental voice: um, you need to be more specific. But I've digressed from my digression. Anyway, in Korean culture, if there is a guest of honor he or she will never do any work but rather the one closest to the guest of honor will cook the food, cut it up, and keep the meal going. Mean while, another person will pour ALL THE DRINKS for EVERYONE at the table, not just their own. When with a group of friends, the oldest will usually do the cooking because it is the oldest amongst friends that is supposed to be the care-taker and the looker-after-er. [that's a very technical term] More often than not, someone will just start cooking and take on that role. I have yet to see a time when Koreans won't step up and cook for others.) So then the individual will take the meat that's been cooked and prepare their lettuce wrap or whatnot. It is extremely common for Koreans to just reach over and eat off each other's plates without asking. This is embedded in the culture and it also signifies that the people eating together are close. This goes for soup, drinks, main course, anything. Even when dining in American restaurants such as Outback, On the Border or TGI Friday's Koreans still share. If there are 3 people at the table, they will order 1 salad, place it in the middle of the table and share it. They will then order 2 meals and do the same. I've also never met such keen problem solvers as I have with my Korean friends. I have no idea how they do it but they have the entire thing figured out in a matter of 1 minute and it's a done deal. No arguing over meals or pouting or whatnot. (Wow. The more I write about Korean culture the more I want to abandon my American friends for all of my Korean friends.) Koreans are amazing at sharing when it comes to anything. When one person gets a snack while waiting on the bus, it's ALWAYS passed among friends and a sharing is always offered; if one person goes to get coffee after dinner they come back with 4 cups for everyone to share. It's incredible. When in Korea, you will always be taken care of and it's something I really wish Americans could learn.
9. You scratch mine, I'll scratch yours. The drinking culture in Korea is fascinating and somewhat intimidating before you have it down pat. If not done properly, it can be seen as very insulting and selfish. Koreans care about the group before anything and always want what's best for everybody. When drinking alcohol (which they do nearly at every single dinner and then thereafter; weekdays mean nothing to Koreans--they drink! on any day that ends in y.) there is certain etiquette that should always be followed. First rule of thumb: never pour your own alcoholic drink. Water, cider, soda, juice is ok and every thing that I'm talking about in this point refers to alcoholic drinks. It's allegedly bad luck for the person sitting across from you if you pour your own drink and it's just rude so don't do it. Second rule of thumb, hold your glass when accepting a drink with 2 hands and when pouring a drink hold it with two hands. The two hand rule is seen throughout their entire culture: when giving/receiving gifts, when shaking hands, when doing anything that involves your hands it shows respect to use two of them. Third rule, make sure the eldest person's drink is filled first then pour around the table. Set the bottle down because someone will lift it to pour your drink. This is where the pro comes in: Koreans are always looking out for each other and will fill each other's drinks continuously throughout the night. If your drink starts to become empty, it will be filled by someone around you and it is expected that you do the same for them. With two hands, of course.
10. Cost of living is so cheap! Well, at least where I live. I'm in a rather rural area with a small down town area and the cost of living here is about half of what it was for me in the states and I'm from midwest America. It's great. I'm talking food, beer, groceries, cell phones, you name it, it's cheaper. Well. Aside from foreign products. Domestic products are super cheap, which I think encourages people to buy domestically. I paid $70 for a single bottle of Jameson Whiskey. Daaaangg! Yeah but that's MUCH better than the alternative: Korean Whiskey. eeeeewwwww
11. They REALLY know how to use the earth's resources. I have never traveled to any country that uses all of the earth's resources like Korea does. They use the entire body of any animal they kill and not the way we do in the States. The spinal chord is used to make a soup that is supposed to be really good for your health, the tail of a cow is also used in a soup (which is not too bad, actually) that is supposed to be good for your complexion, roots of plants are used as side dishes, the list goes on and on and on. And the things they can do with rice! Wow! I'm still fairly unfamiliarly with Korean food and have a lot of learning to do in that department but I do know that they use everything that the earth gives them in a very admirable way.
12. Composting is the way of life here and I love it. There are no garbage disposals but rather we put any food that would go in the trash or in the garbage disposal in America into a yellow bag. The yellow is the designated color for compost food, green is trash and white is recycle. In the sink is a plastic filter-like thing that catches all of the food while cooking or washing dishes. Then you empty the filter into the yellow bag and put it in the freezer until full to prevent odor. When the bag is full you simply place it in its designated place for pick up. AAALLLL of Korea composts: at restaurants, after my school lunch, everywhere. It's fantastic.
13. Please recycle! Korea is excellent about recycling. You can recycle about anything and you don't need to separate it. All of your recycled materials are put into the designated white bag and placed at the designated place for pick up; it's so convenient and too easy not to do. Even fast food places have segregated deposits for recycled materials and trash. They are also on the street.
14. Universal health care!!!!! Is incredible and it's cheap. Medicine costs next to nothing and a doctor's visit will never deplete your wallet. Korea is a socialist country and it's fantastic. My apartment bills (gas, water, electric,) are divided up evenly amongst the entire building so my bills turn out to be about about 50 bucks a month. Amazing.
15. Social progression is happening slowly in Korea. They are a country that is rich with culture and full of history. The older generation is having a really hard time letting go of Korean conservatism and understandably so. They are the generation that experienced the Korean war and gained victory over Japan. (side note: so many Koreans hold up the "peace" sign in pictures but to them it is a 'V' for victory of Japan, not peace as it is in the States.) They have a large amount of pride and really don't want to see that lost in the younger generations. However, times are a-changin' and social progression is a big part of Korean culture right now. It's a very exciting time to be in Korea to see things change. Woman are gaining more powerful roles and are starting to be seen as equals (though Korea still has a loooonnng way to go with that), being homosexual is still social suicide but it's creeping its way in. That will come with future, future, future generations but the ball has been put into motion nonetheless. Pop songs are starting to become a bit more American (I REALLY think that Western world influence has A LOT to do with some of these changes) in that they are becoming a bit sexier though not racy like in the States. Divorce is something that is frowned upon a lot but is becoming to be something that is more of an acceptable option for those that need it. Koreans certainly don't use divorce as a crutch the way Americans do but for so long the social stigma of divorce deterred unhappy couples from separating or abused women (yes, it happens here too) from being able to be free and safe. The younger generations are really progressing Korea socially and I'm excited to see where it will go in the next few decades.
16. Culture is so plentiful here and it makes me wish that my home land had a rooted culture. After attending traditional events such as birthdays and weddings, it's so amazing to their culture and to see tradition. From the traditional wear to the bows it's all so beautiful and it's something I'm very envious of as an American. Koreans are EXTREMELY proud of their country and their culture and have great respect for it.
17. Kids = custodians. The kids at my school clean like they get paid to do it. 3 times a day (morning, after lunch, before going home) they clean the school. The classrooms, the hall ways, the windows, the bathrooms. It's incredible and they do a darn good job too! There are no custodians at my school--only a man that locks the doors at night.


Ok, now for the cons...

1. Saving face happens like you wouldn't believe. If you know anything about Korean culture it's that they save face. This means that they only want others to see the good in things, that they won't tell you bad news until last minute in hopes that it will go away or change, they will lie to cover up mistakes, etc. Saving face is seen in many different scenarios and Koreans have a very hard time admitting they are wrong. I think this all starts when they're in school and they are programed to not mess up and are taught that being wrong is equivalent to life failure. Koreans are excellent at faking happiness too. There is not public disagreement and confrontation only happens in very private places. Coming from a society where we are very open and honest about our feelings, this is quite challenging. The last minute changes and updates are also difficult to manage but deep breaths always help.
2. What's a gym? Ok so they HAVE gyms but I think I should call them "gyms". There isn't much need to work out because Koreans sort of have a naturally slim body structure and stay slender so not a lot of money is put into gyms. The equipment is very limited and facilities are very small. I run outside when I can.
3. What's deodorant?! What do you MEAN what's deodorant?? Yeah, Koreans don't use deodorant. I call it the 8th wonder of the world because as a 6th grade teacher, my classroom smells 8 times better than it did when I was teaching in America. wow! How do they do it? I'm not sure but Koreans also rarely sweat. Their bodies are much different from ours in many ways: little sweating, they process alcohol much faster than Westerners, and they can squat for hours at a time. Some attribute it to the kimchi others say it's an eternal mystery. So why is this a con then? Because it's next to impossible to find deodorant here, that's why!
4. Last minute changes happen frequently. This is not the saving-face-last-minute-changes it's the "oh, we decided to do it differently" last minute changes. It happens all. the. time. Too often to provide examples.
5. Lack of convenience is often times frustrating for me. It's sort of Korean style to have stores that specialize in one thing and so finding a Wal-Mart type store is rare. There are a few such as E-Mart and Lotte Mart but even then they don't have everything I may need. The options are limited because for whatever reason, competition amongst companies doesn't really seem to happen. There are about 2 different brands to choose from with most things. Wal-Mart, as much as I loathed it, was extremely convenient and I could always count on them having anything my heart desired. I'm getting used to going all around down town for different things I may need.
6. Mold, mold, mold is everywhere is a big Korean problem. Natural ventilation is used as much as possible, which leads to mold. It's not treated most of the time and has kind of become a normal thing for many. It's in apartments, dorms, and other living places. I have some in my place but not bad and I bleach it regularly.
7. Fried chicken or friend chicken? Those are often times your only two options. There is a fried chicken joint on every single block. They are everywhere and Koreans do love their fried chicken! It's a mystery to me that I simply can't explain: how they eat so much fried chicken but keep their slender physique. So many places serve fried chicken and it's both tempting and annoying.
8. Can't. Be. Wrong. The students have a really hard time with being wrong and making mistakes. This makes it difficult for me as a teacher to encourage them to try. I have tried to explain that part of learning is messing up and their final goal is to be successful so if they want t to accomplish such a task then the way to go about it is not to resist but rather to participate fully. It's been a struggle but progress is being made. They almost refuse to do anything in front of the group out of fear of messing up or being embarrassed. Often times students won't volunteer because they are scared they "might be wrong" but when I encourage them enough to say the answer they are almost always correct. It's a matter of creating a comfortable environmental for them. Also, it helps a lot when I act like a fool to show that they can be silly too. I've learned that it helps a lot to try to learn their language in front of them. They think it's hilarious when I can't pronounce a Korean word or when I mess up on my grammar or something like that. But I make a point that learning another language is difficult and in order to learn, you must mess up and be willing to try.
9. What is that?? The food is often times mysterious and sometimes I have no idea what I'm eating. While it's good that they use the earth's resources to its full potential, it also yields problems for foreigners who have no idea if it's a root or a worm or a fish. There's only one way to find out!....
10. Work, work, work. Student are way over worked. They go to school during the day then a lot of them go to Hagwons after school which is night school. It's the exact same thing as their public school but much more strict and much more challenging. These kids are worked to the bone when it comes to school and are pressured so much that Korea has the highest suicide rate of any country. There is a certain time of year when national testing occurs and suicide rates spike due to students feeling that they can not perform as they are expected to and commit suicide. This is a problem.
11. Random spam texts are very common and are very annoying. They are advertisements mostly and they are annoying.
13. Watching clothes dry is like watching grass grow. Dryers are slim to none in Korea and are non-existent in apartments. Clothes are either hung dry (most common) or are taken to the cleaners (expensive). I'm constantly doing laundry because I can't do it all at once--there is no where to put all of my laundry to have it dry. It takes planning ahead and patience.

Well, I think that about does it for now. As I said, I want this to be an on-going list of things I observe. I will post when it has been updated and will provide the link.


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